Is Licorice Root Extract Safe for Skin? What You Need to Know

Licorice root extract is safe for most skin types when used topically in well-formulated products. This ingredient appears in everything from serums to moisturisers to targeted redness-relief treatments—and research supports its use. However, "safe" doesn't mean one-size-fits-all. Let's break down what the science says, who should use it, and how to verify it's right for your routine.

What Licorice Root Extract Actually Does

Licorice root contains three active compounds: glycyrrhizin, liquiritin, and isoliquiritin. These work together to calm inflammation, inhibit melanin production, and strengthen skin's natural barrier.

Primary functions:

• Reduces redness and irritation
• Brightens hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks
• Soothes eczema-prone and sensitive skin
• Protects against environmental stressors

In skincare formulas, licorice root extract typically appears as a liquid or powder extract, not whole root. This standardised form makes dosing predictable and safe. The ingredient is INCI-listed as Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract or sometimes Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, depending on the product.

📱 Scan your product with the InciDecode app

Safety Profile: What Research Shows

Licorice root extract has been used in skincare and medicine for centuries, and modern studies confirm its safety profile. When applied topically at typical cosmetic concentrations (0.5–2%), it does not penetrate deeply enough to cause systemic effects.

Key safety findings:

• No sensitisation or phototoxicity reported in dermatological trials
• Safe for pregnant and nursing individuals (though always confirm with a healthcare provider)
• Non-comedogenic at standard concentrations
• Unlikely to cause contact dermatitis except in rare cases of true licorice allergy

The only real caution: systemic absorption of licorice (through ingestion or high-dose supplements) can interact with blood pressure medication. Topical skincare use does not pose this risk. The amount absorbed through skin is negligible.

However, concentration matters. Products listing licorice root extract at the very end of the ingredient list contain minimal amounts—likely 0.1% or less. Those listing it earlier (within the top 10 ingredients) may offer stronger anti-inflammatory benefits, but are still safe at cosmetic-grade percentages.

Who Benefits Most—and Who Should Patch Test

Licorice root extract suits most skin types, but certain people see the biggest results.

Ideal candidates:

• Rosacea-prone or easily flushed skin
• Hyperpigmentation and melasma
• Eczema or dermatitis-prone skin
• Post-acne redness and PIE (post-inflammatory erythema)
• Sensitive skin that needs calming without actives like retinol or vitamin C

Who should patch test first:

• Those with fragrance sensitivities (some extracts contain fragrant compounds)
• Rare licorice allergy
• Very reactive, compromised barrier skin

If you're already using strong actives like niacinamide or glycolic acid, licorice root extract won't conflict—in fact, it pairs beautifully with these ingredients to enhance tolerance.

Licorice Root Extract vs. Other Soothing Ingredients

Not all calming ingredients work the same way. Here's how licorice stacks up:

Licorice stands out because it combines redness-reduction and brightening in one ingredient. If your concern is active redness or melasma, licorice is a top choice. If you need barrier repair after irritation, centella may serve you better.

🧪 Browse all ingredients

How to Read the Label and Check Concentration

The ingredient list doesn't state concentration percentages—that's where InciDecode helps. By scanning your product, you'll see where licorice root extract appears and learn what concentration research suggests is effective.

Quick label checklist:

1. Location matters. Top 10 = meaningful dose. Bottom 20 = minimal.
2. Look for the INCI name: Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.
3. Check for paired actives. Licorice + niacinamide, vitamin C, or centella = synergistic formula.
4. Avoid if: You have a known licorice allergy (extremely rare).

Many products list licorice as a supporting ingredient in a soothing complex—alongside allantoin, panthenol, or beta-glucan. This isn't a weakness; it means the formula is designed to layer calming actions.

Real Risks vs. Myths

Myth: Licorice extract will thin your skin. Reality: No evidence supports this. Licorice strengthens barrier function.

Myth: It's not strong enough to make a difference. Reality: Multiple clinical studies show measurable reduction in redness and hyperpigmentation at 2–8 weeks.

Myth: It interferes with acne treatment. Reality: Licorice anti-inflammatory action actually supports acne recovery.

Real consideration: Formulation matters more than ingredient alone. A poorly stabilised licorice extract in a low-pH serum may irritate; the same extract in a balanced moisturiser won't. This is why scanning your full product formula with InciDecode is smarter than assessing ingredients in isolation.

What to Check Before You Buy

Before adding a licorice root extract product to your cart, ask:

• Where does it sit in the ingredient list? (See above.)
• What's the pH? Licorice works best in formulas between pH 4.5–6.5.
• Are you patch testing if you have reactive skin? Even gentle ingredients can cause sensitivity in severely compromised barriers.
• Does it overlap with your routine? If you're already using niacinamide serum, a second niacinamide + licorice product may be redundant.
• Can you commit to consistent use? Anti-inflammatory benefits build over 2–4 weeks, not overnight.

🔍 Ingredient questions answered

Finding Licorice Root Extract Products That Fit Your Routine

Licorice appears in many product types—serums, toners, moisturisers, and targeted spot treatments. The best choice depends on your skin concerns and existing routine.

Browse soothing serums and essences designed to calm redness and reduce sensitivity. These typically deliver higher concentrations of licorice and complementary actives.

Explore gentle moisturisers with licorice for daily barrier support, ideal if you have rosacea or eczema-prone skin.

Check targeted treatment products featuring licorice if you're focusing on post-acne redness or melasma.

When you've found a product, scan it with the InciDecode app to confirm licorice placement, understand every ingredient, and check for any sensitivities before you open it.

📱 Scan your product with the InciDecode app

---

Related Ingredient Questions

Curious how licorice pairs with other ingredients? Explore how niacinamide complements soothing ingredients or learn why centella asiatica is chosen for sensitive skin.

For a complete picture of your product, visit the InciDecode ingredient dictionary to decode every component.