Licorice root extract is one of skincare's most beloved brighteners—it fades post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, soothes redness, and delivers a gentle glow without irritation. But like any active ingredient, it comes with nuances. Understanding who should skip it and why ensures you get the benefits without unnecessary risk.
What Are the Real Side Effects of Licorice Root Extract?
Licorice root extract is remarkably well-tolerated at the concentrations used in cosmetics (typically 0.5–2%). Most people experience zero side effects. However, when side effects do occur, they tend to cluster in these categories:
Contact dermatitis and sensitivity reactions are the most common complaint. Some people report itching, redness, or mild burning within 24–48 hours of application—especially if they have naturally reactive or compromised skin barriers. This is not an allergy to licorice itself, but rather a reaction to one of its active compounds or other ingredients in the formula.
Photosensitivity is a less common but documented concern. Licorice root contains compounds that may increase skin's sensitivity to UV light at very high concentrations. This risk is minimal in over-the-counter products, but anyone prone to photosensitivity should patch-test and use SPF religiously.
Hormonal effects are rare in topical use but worth noting. Licorice contains compounds (glycyrrhizin) that can interact with estrogen and cortisol metabolism—primarily a concern for people taking hormonal birth control, hormone replacement therapy, or those with estrogen-sensitive cancers. Topical exposure is unlikely to cause systemic effects, but caution is sensible.
Hypertension and sodium retention occur only at high oral doses (not topical skincare concentrations). If you have uncontrolled high blood pressure and use a licorice-heavy skincare regimen daily for months, there's a theoretical risk—but it's vanishingly small.
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Who Should Avoid Licorice Root Extract Altogether?
Certain populations should skip licorice root extract in skincare or consult a dermatologist first:
- People with a documented licorice or plant allergy. If you've had a reaction to licorice candy, tea, or supplements, topical products may trigger contact dermatitis or anaphylaxis (rare).
- Anyone with estrogen-sensitive breast cancer, endometriosis, or hormone-dependent conditions. Talk to your oncologist or OB-GYN before use.
- Pregnant or nursing people. While topical use is thought to be low-risk, the evidence is thin. Better to err on the side of caution and wait.
- Those taking medications for high blood pressure or heart conditions. Licorice can raise blood pressure and cause hypokalemia (low potassium) at high doses; even topical use over large areas warrants a doctor's nod.
- People with severely compromised or inflamed skin barriers. If you're mid-eczema flare, have open wounds, or are using harsh actives, hold off until skin recovers.
Concentration Matters: Low-Dose vs. High-Dose Risk
One reason licorice root extract is so safe in cosmetics is concentration control. Here's what you need to know:
0.5–1.5% (typical range): This is the sweet spot. Studies show anti-inflammatory and brightening benefits with minimal side effects in patch tests. Most serums, moisturizers, and masks sit in this range.
2–5% (higher-strength formulas): Some targeted brightening serums push toward 2–3% licorice root. Benefits deepen, but so does the risk of irritation in sensitive skin. Always patch-test.
Above 5% (rare in cosmetics): You'll almost never see this in over-the-counter skincare—it's more common in clinical or compounded products. Risk of contact dermatitis and photosensitivity climbs.
Oral supplements (not topical skincare): Doses above 100 mg/day of glycyrrhizin for weeks can raise blood pressure. Cosmetic products deliver far lower systemic exposure.
To find the exact concentration in your product, use InciDecode to scan your INCI list—the closer licorice root extract sits to the end of the list, the lower its concentration.
Skin Types & Conditions: Who Benefits vs. Who Needs Caution?
| Skin Type / Condition | Best for Licorice? | Why | Caution Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oily, acne-prone | Yes, excellent | Soothes redness, antibacterial | Low |
| Dry, sensitive | Yes, with patch-test | Anti-inflammatory, hydrating partners | Medium |
| Eczema or dermatitis (active flare) | No, wait | Risk of contact irritation | High |
| Rosacea | Yes, ideal | Reduces flushing and redness | Low |
| Hyperpigmentation/melasma | Yes, proven | Tyrosinase inhibitor, fade discoloration | Low |
| Combination skin | Yes | Benefits outweigh risks for most | Low |
| Reactive/sensitized (from retinoids, acids) | Caution, use gently | May irritate if barrier compromised | Medium–High |
How to Use Licorice Root Extract Safely & Minimize Risk
- Patch-test first. Apply a dime-sized amount to your inner arm or behind your ear, wait 24–48 hours. No itching, redness, or swelling? You're likely safe.
- Start low, go slow. Use 2–3 times per week for the first two weeks. If no irritation, increase frequency.
- Avoid layering with other strong actives early on. Combining licorice with vitamin C, niacinamide, or mild acids is generally fine, but don't add a retinoid or AHA/BHA in the same routine until you know how licorice sits with your skin.
- Use SPF daily. Even though photosensitivity risk is low, UV protection is non-negotiable with any skin treatment.
- Check the full formula. Licorice root extract alone rarely causes trouble, but other ingredients (fragrance, essential oils, high-dose actives) might. Scan your product with the InciDecode app to decode every ingredient.
- Monitor for delayed reactions. Side effects can take days to appear. Keep a simple log if you're trialing a new product.
What to Check Before You Buy
- INCI list position: Is licorice root extract in the first 10 ingredients (likely 1–2% concentration)? Or lower (trace amount)?
- Other actives in the formula: Does it also contain AHA, BHA, vitamin C, or retinoids? If so, you're paying for a multi-tasker—great if your skin can handle it.
- Preservative system: Check for parabens, phenoxyethanol, or fragrance if you're sensitive to those.
- Product type: Serums deliver higher concentrations than moisturizers or masks. Start with the latter if you're new to licorice.
🔍 Ingredient questions answered
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How Licorice Compares to Other Brightening Ingredients
Curious how licorice stacks up? Explore our complete guide to skin-brightening ingredients. Licorice works synergistically with vitamin C, niacinamide, and azelaic acid—all gentler when combined with licorice's soothing power.
Explore brightening serums and treatments and moisturizers formulated with licorice root extract to see what's available. Or browse targeted hyperpigmentation solutions for curated options.
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Frequently asked questions
Can licorice root extract cause an allergic reaction?
True allergies to licorice are rare but documented. If you've reacted to licorice candy, tea, or supplements, patch-test cosmetics first. Most reactions are contact dermatitis (irritant, not allergic). Stop use and see a dermatologist if you develop rash, swelling, or difficulty breathing.
Is licorice root extract safe during pregnancy?
While topical use is considered low-risk, human safety data in pregnancy is limited. Consult your OB-GYN before using licorice-rich products. Most doctors suggest waiting until after pregnancy and breastfeeding to minimize theoretical systemic exposure.
Can licorice root extract raise my blood pressure?
Only at very high oral doses (100+ mg/day glycyrrhizin for weeks). Topical skincare delivers negligible systemic absorption. However, if you have hypertension and use large amounts of licorice products daily, mention it to your doctor—it's a precaution, not a prohibition.
How long does it take to see side effects from licorice root extract?
Contact dermatitis typically appears within 24–72 hours of application. Photosensitivity or hormonal effects develop over weeks of heavy use. If you notice itching, redness, or unusual sensitivity within 3 days, discontinue and patch-test a different product.
Can I use licorice root extract with retinoids or vitamin C?
Yes, and it's often a smart combo. Licorice's anti-inflammatory properties buffer retinoid irritation, and it pairs well with vitamin C for brightening. Start one active at a time, wait 2 weeks to confirm tolerance, then layer gradually. Use SPF always.
Is licorice root extract comedogenic?
No, it's non-comedogenic and often recommended for acne-prone skin. It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that help calm breakouts. However, if the formula contains occlusive oils or fragrances, it may clog pores—check the full ingredient list with InciDecode.